Bateman Race Engineering sponsored rider Tim O'Mahony - Photo Copyright  2008
Bateman Race Engineering sponsored rider Tim O'Mahony

Bateman Race Engineering

Parts and Services Main Page

Current racing parts and services offered by Bateman Race Engineering.


2008 Parts and Services

Honda 160 camshaft converted to adjustable sprocket

Bateman Race Engineering is in limited production of parts and services for Honda 160/175/200 vintage racing twins, as well as offering race services and parts and supplies from other sources.   Parts and services will be available on a semi limited basis and not always in a particularly timely fashion, so be warned....   Parts in stock will be posted here, for services email me to set up an appointment and arrange for shipping or drop off of parts.

I'm trying to keep this website up to date, but as I'm a one man show it will invariably lag behind.   Email me if you're looking for something or want to check the status of my development projects, to order parts or to see what else I can get for you.   If you're looking for other sources for stuff or sources for stuff I don't make and sell scroll down to the bottom of the page where I list some other sources for parts.

 

Note:   A lot of these parts are not strictly necessary for the budget racer, and many if not all of these parts and services have cheaper alternatives - peruse Group W Racing and the F-160 list for other ideas if you're on a tight budget and these parts/services are out of your price range.   I'm not trying to get rich on these parts - the price just reflects how much (supplies and labor) it costs me to produce them.

I am a Sudco, Kibblewhite, K&L, Rocky Mountain ATV, Ricci Motorsports, R-Tech fuel and Pertronix dealer - I can order parts, tools and supplies for you for both your vintage racer and your modern bike as well.   Race carburetors (Keihin PE24, Mikuni VM22 for example), hand controls, K&N air filters, Accel and Dyna coils, service tools, etc.

Lead times vary for parts not in stock.   Some are only a few days away, other parts take more time.   Make sure to contact me and find out what lead times are for parts you want - some parts require more planning ahead.

 


Parts and Supplies

The following are parts I manufacture and sell, services I provide and parts I am a dealer for.   I will try to keep the page up to date on what I have in stock and what I don't, but be sure to email and check if you're interested in something.   Of the race parts I don't make it's hard to stock too much as I'm quite small and can't afford to invest in too much stock.   As I grow I'll slowly build stock in more popular items.

 

Page Menu

Bateman Race Engineering products
Racing Parts and Supplies
Bateman Race Engineering Services
Future/Development Race Parts
Other Sources for race parts

(quick jumps to the various sections)

 


 

Bateman Race Engineering Products

Coming soon!

Coming soon(ish) - the Bateman Racing guide book to building your own CB160/175 racing engine - hints, tips and instructions on building a 160/175 racer engine - including what to measure and how.   Advice on parts selection and motor spec will be given as well.   I expect this to come together over the next winter, and will include information on development taking place this season.

 

Starter Blockoff Plug


Sloper case (160, Sloper 175) - $50


Vertical case (Vert 175) - $40

Lightweight blockoff plugs for both 160 and 175 engines.   These lightweight plugs are machined from billet to plug the hole left in the case when you remove the starter.   They are machined with a groove to use the stock oring from your starter.   They can also be glued in place without the oring (not necessarily recommended) using Hondabond or equivalent as a sealer.   The 160 plugs are more expensive as they're significantly larger, take more material and significantly more time to machine.

Although I've never had one back out I do recommend that they are either glued in place with Hondabond or secured with some other method.   The frontmost left sidecover bolt hole can be threaded the rest of the way through and a cut down small bolt/washer used for extra insurance and to appease any tech inspector's concerns.

 

Kickstarter blockoff Plug


Kickstarter Shaft Plug - $25

A plug to keep the oil in the bike if you remove the kickstart mechanism.   A nicely machined plug with oring and retainer bolt/washer.   Easily installed and easily removed if wanted to go back to stock configuration or to transfer to a new sidecover in the case of an "unfortunate event..."

 

Pertronix Ignition Systems


6/20/08 - Out of stock - will be back in stock within the next couple of weeks

Complete Ignition System - $120

Note - prices on Pertronix ignition systems will be going up soon. This is your last chance to get one at this price.


Pertronix Ignition installed on head

I now have complete Pertronix based ignition systems in stock for 160 and 175 engines as described in the Pertronix Ignitor article in the tech section of Group W Racing..   These are already modified, mounted on a 160/175 points plate and ready to be bolted on to your bike.   You just need to specify which cam nose diameter you have.   For 175 cams with 5mm x 0.8mm threads I now have a low profile mounting option that will allow the entire unit to fit under an unmodified points cover.   160s still require either a stack of points cover gaskets or a small hole in the points cover to clear the stock 5mm x 0.9mm bolt.   If you don't mind modifying the stock bolt is possible to accomplish the same thing for 160s, but you'll have to do that yourself.

The Pertronix ignition system is also available separately if you happen to have hooked yours up backwards and smoked the module - module and magnet sleeve only, not mounted on a points plate - $90.


In stock! - $30

The camshaft nose adaptor is also available separately if you would like to source and modify your own Pertronix Ignitor - $30 each.   Specify cam nose diameter (ie - 160 and sloper 175 cam is 10mm, vertical 175 and 200 is 11mm.


New low profile version for 175 cams

These ignition systems and adaptors take the place of your mechanical advance mechanism and allow a modified Pertronix ignition unit to be used in place of points.   It will greatly improve the reliability of your bike and change your rev limit from point float to valve float.   It is highly recommended that you use racing valve springs if you are not already doing so once you make this modification.   I can source them and often have them in stock.  

I am currently doing quite a bit of work on springs and spring pressures for our racers.   Contact me for my most recent recommendations on springs for your particular setup.

 

Adjustable Cam Sprocket

CB175 Camshaft modified for adjustable timing - Photo Copyright  2001 Michael Bateman
Adjustable Cam Sprocket modification - Price $175 (for now) - on sale until I run out of current stock of adaptor flanges and need to machine more.

Note - I am currently out of stock on 175 cam adaptors - I will be ordering and machining new ones within the next month.   I still have several 160 adaptors in stock (6/20/08).   New pricing TBD - probably around $200

Adjustable cam sprocket modification for Honda 160/175/200 racers.   I am again offering the conversion of non-adjustable 160 and 175 camshafts (stock or not) to adjustable sprockets.   This entails machining an adaptor flange to be pressed on the camshaft in place of the sprocket, facing, boring and slotting of the stock sprocket to match, and realigning the cam to the original setting.   This will allow the cam timing of your engine to be adjusted easily.   All other things being equal one of the main differences between a fast and slow 160/175 is whether or not the cam timing is correct.   This is a service/modification to your camshaft.   It will be returned to you fully adjustable with instructions on measuring and setting the cam timing.   I am also offering tools to use to measure the cam timing that make it much easier to do.   See elsewhere on this page for tools.


Detail of new "Works" version with degree engraving for easier degreeing.

There is an article on measuring and setting your cam timing on the Group W Racing website.   Direct link to the article here.

 

Cam Timing Tools


Degree wheel adaptor


Degree wheel adaptor mounted to crank, with degree wheel

Degree Wheel Adaptor - An easy way to mount your degree wheel to the 160/175 crankshaft.   In stock at $40.   Sized for a degree wheel with a 3/4" hole.

Degree Wheel - I haven't found a source any cheaper than you can buy them yourself.   I recommend a degree wheel from Summit Racing.   I'm using the Mr Gasket version.   Anything with a 3/4" hole will work - I might be able to modify an adaptor if the hole size is close.

Dial indicator holder - pictured above.   A custom dial indicator holder for the 160/175/200 racer - holds the dial indicator in exactly the right spot and at the right angle.   Useable on all 4 valves, marked for correct angle(s).   Rigid as all get out - you'll get no indicator creep here, and if you accidentally bump it it won't move and mess you up.   You won't believe how much easier it is with one of these over the old bendy dial indicator stands.   Available with or without dial indicator.   In stock - $35 each, $55 with dial indicator.

The spools you see holding down the head are available too - critical for correct cam timing.   With the spools you can torque the head down correctly so that the stack height of head/cylinder/gaskets is correct but still get at the cam to adjust the timing without having to untorque, remove the valve cover, adjust timing, replace valve cover, retorque, etc.   Also useable for checking piston/valve clearances, squish clearances etc though the valve cover works just fine for that.   Currently out of stock - $30/set of eight.

 

Assembly Tools

Piston stop plates -

These slip under the pistons when you're assembling the engine. They make it much easier to assemble the engine. These not only hold the pistons up, they also keep them square to the cylinder and make it a snap to poke the rings in and drop the cylinders over the pistons.   Several sets in stock at $30/pair.

 

Intake Manifolds

I have taken over the molds for the intake mainfolds that Simon-Pierre Smith was making for the 160s.   These work great for using the VM22 Mikuni carbs on 160s especially, and can be modified to mount PE24 Keihin carburetors on the 160 or sloper 175.   I am also working in getting some really cool intake manifolds for 160s and sloper 175s.   The're billet reproductions of period Webco intake manifolds.   I'll put up pics as soon as I get the first set in.   I have these in stock.


Intake manifolds for Mikuni VM22 on sloper cylinder heads
Not yet drilled for head or carburetor

 


Intake manifolds modified for Keihin PE24 on sloper cylinder heads

 

Side Covers


Racing sidecover - for left side of engine (flywheel cover) - $35

I have a limited number of these in stock right now.   Once I run out I'm out for a while - it takes the foundry a little while to fit them in and make a run.

 


 

Racing parts and Supplies

 

Shock Absorbers

I'm in the process of becoming a dealer for YSS shocks.   They look like they might just be the ticket for those of you who have outgrown your Hagon shocks (or Redwings, or...).   Eventually if you ride the bikes hard and fast enough you will be wishing for a bit better suspension than a stock front end and Hagon shocks.   If you get to that point it's looking like YSS shocks may be the way to go.   Available in 10mm length increments from xxmm to xxmm, ride height adjustable to +10mm, adjustable rebound damping, available with either eyelet or clevis lower mount - in short fully custom all for the same price. They retail about $400, which is quite a bit more than Hagons but cheaper than other alternatives.

If you're interested in trying a set let me know - the first couple of development riders might just get as much discount off retail as I can afford.

 

Racing Valves, Springs, Caps & Keepers


Custom Stainless Racing Valves (160 or 175)- $240/set
Racing Valve Springs (160 or 175) - $40/set
Titanium Valve Caps (160 or 175) - $65/set
Valve Keepers - $7.50/set

Valves

I highly recommend getting away from stock valves if you can afford it, especially if you've put any $$$ and/or time into your engine.   Racing with stock valves is a bit of a crap shoot - they can and do break.   I've seen them break both by dropping the head off (not as common) or by breaking at the keeper groove (more common).  

These are Kibblewhite custom stainless racing valves for Honda 160 and 175 racers.   They are made with modern round keeper grooves to prevent stem breakage at high rpm.   These valves use round groove keepers which have a different external angle than stock and thus can't be used with stock spring caps.   They have a black DLC (Diamond Like Coating) on them and they are very durable.   They also have larger margins than stock and can be reground several times before needing to be replaced.   The extra margin also adds a little bit of compression.   They will work just fine in stock valve guides if the guides are in good shape.

These valves are available in stock diameters as well as 1mm oversize for both 160 and 175 racers.

Note for those of you racing other bikes - I can also get any Kibblewhite product for your bikes - email me for details/prices.

 

Valve Springs

I have racing valve springs available for both 160 and 175.   Springs for 160s can be used in 175s and vice-versa with the appropriate spring caps and bases.   Contact me for details and current recommendations - I have been working with several spring professionals in order to be able to recommend springs for your specific application.  

Note: Even if you're racing with stock valves, you'll want to order racing springs, especially for a 160 racer.   160 springs are not even close to being suitable for racing.   The stock 175 springs are not so bad, but do not have any room for any extra lift if you choose to use a non-stock cam.   Again - contact me for recommendations.

 

Valve Caps & Keepers

I recommend and often stock these Titanium valve caps.   They are available in sizes for both 160 size springs and 175 size springs.   Once you've determined which spring package you'll be using choose the cap to go with the springs.   I can probably also help source spring bases if you're changing from one spring style to another - contact me for recommendations.   The keepers work with either cap.   You'll need 8 keepers (unless you tend to drop them and lose them - they are pretty small)...

 

Valve Guides and Seals


Kibblewhite Ampco-45 Valve Guides and Seals
Valve Guides - $90.00/set (also available individually)
Valve Guide Seals - $20.00/set

If your guides are worn and need to be replaced I recommend going with these guides.   They are a nickel-bronze material called Ampco-45 and are very hard wearing, as well as superior for heat transmission away from the valve to the head.   Additionally, these guides can be run with modern valve stem seals if desired for less oil in the combustion chamber.   Note that to use seals on these guides you'll need to be running a 160 size spring package.

I also have exhaust guide seals in stock for the stock CB/CL175 vertical engine setup with the metal top hat seal retainer for those of you racing vertical 175 heads with stock guides.

 

Cam Chains


Tsubaki Cam Chain - $38.50
Tsubaki master link - $2.50

I've been doing a lot of searching for cam chain alternatives.   It turns out that cam chains for our bikes is a tough one to figure out completely.   I recommend that once you start racing hard you should replace the stock cam chain with a chain that has a rivet type master link.   There are a few choices - I can get Tsubaki full sideplate racing chains (pictured above) or EK brand cam chains (not pictured).   The Tsubaki chains are robust and the master links have a shoulder to keep you from pressing the sideplate on too far.   The EK chains have been troublesome for some of the racers, others report no problems. The EK master links are easy to press on too far as they have no shoulder.   I can get them but I'm not sure I can recommend them.   The advantage of the EK chains is that they are a figure 8 sideplate chain.   For those using stock type upper cam chain rollers it may be best to stick with stock style chain (figure 8 sideplate) as I've had reports that the full sideplate chains are a bit harder on the rollers.  

There are a couple of other full sideplate chains out there that will also work, but they don't have any real advantage over the Tsubaki that I can find.

I can get the Motion Pro cam chain breaker/riveter set if you need it - contact me for details.   I may also be working on some special tools myself, especially for:

We are working on testing another alternative chain -


DID camchain

This season my development rider Tim O'Mahoney is testing the chain above.   It may end up being the ultimate cam chain for our racers - stay tuned here for news.   It will take fabrication of some special tools, but so far it seems to be working very well. It will be priced about the same as the Tsubaki chain.   It will require some special tools to install which I'm working on right now.

 


Cam Chain Tensioner Lock Bolt - $7.50

Often on our cylinder heads the funky little bolt that locks the cam chain tensioner in place has stripped out the threads in the head.   The threads are short and weak.   If you're having trouble maintaining cam chain tension over the course of a race or it seems like your cam chain is stretching more than you'd expect you're probably having trouble with this bolt.   I recommend replacing it with one of these when you have the head off the engine.   This is a 6mm bolt/nut with special high strength aluminum crush washer. The bolt has had the end diameter reduced an first threads removed to prevent mushrooming of the threads preventing removal without damage.

 

Transmission bearing locating pins -

6mm diameter solid pins to replace the typically bent hollow pins you'll find upon disassembly of your transmission - especially on a 160.   Replacing these pins with solid ones and undercutting your transmission shift dogs will greatly improve your shifting and transmission reliablity.   In stock. $3 for a set of 2.


Solid transmission bearing locating pin

 

Clutch Parts

Clutch parts for 160s and 175s can be confusing.   The clutch packs use different thickness plates and different numbers of plates depending on how it's all assembled.   Contact me for clutch plate options.   There are also alternate plates available for 175s.   160 clutch plates are getting harder to find - if yours is good you should probably think about sticking with it and just adding good springs.

Clutch Springs


Racing Clutch Springs - $20.00

I generally have one or two sets of these racing clutch springs in stock.   they're a bit stronger than stock springs, but not so strong as Barnett springs.   I do not recommend Barnett springs - they are way too stiff and are very hard on all the clutch components, especially cables.

 

Wheel Bearings


Wheel Bearings - $??/set

I have wheel bearings in stock for 160 and 175 wheels. Available as a set of bearings for either front or rear wheel.

Race coils

Dyna Coils

Dyna coils are available either separately or with an ignition system and/or wiring harness.   $85 each for coils alone.   Also available with wires.   Contact me for details/options.

 

Accel Coils

Accel coils are also available separately or with an ignition system.   $90 for coil alone.   Also available with wires.   Contact me for details/options.

 

Custom Billet Racing Camshafts - Price/Availability TBD (soon I hope - likely around $350)

Temporarily on Hold - This project is currently on hold until I get enough interest.   In order for the cam grinder to be able to do this work and make us this kind of pricing we'll need to order at least 10 camshafts in the first order.   If you're interested make sure to get on my list so I can let him know when we're ready.  

Bateman Racing is currently working with a custom cam grinder on having brand new cams manufactured from billet.   These cams will be made to my spec for lift/duration and will be available in several stock grinds as well as custom grinds for your particular application, including rotated lobes for 180 degree cranks.   Once available I will be happy to recommend a grind to you based on your application, motor spec and riding experience.   As soon as I know more I will post it here.   I am very excited about this particular product.   These cams will be made ready for a bolted on slotted cam gear - they will not require modification to the cam to be fully adjustable.   They will require a core cam sprocket from a 160 or 175 cam to be faced and slotted for the fixing bolts.   I will have a limited number of already modified sprockets available for sale along with the new cams.   I will remove and modify your core sprocket for a nominal fee if you purchase a billet cam.

 

Handlebar Switch


New Handlebar switch - $30

I've found these really nice handlebar switches.   Originally a headlight switch for late model Yamaha WR250 dirt bikes, they're perfectly suited for our use as ignition switches.   They will be available with the soon to be offered wiring harness as well as separately for you to build your own harness or add to what you've already got done.

 

Wiring Harness (Coming soon(ish) - availablity and pricing TBD)

Bateman Racing in conjunction with Darmah Enterprises will soon be offering a complete simple wiring harness for the 160/175 racer.   This will include switches and connectors to use a Pertronix ignition and your choice of battery connection. It will come with complete installation instructions.   Harnesses are getting closer as of February '08.   These will have the option of Lithium-Polymer batteries.   High energy density, super light weight.   As used on R/C aircraft.   Race proven - they work great.   Harnesses can be set up with connectors for both battery packs and Pertronix ignitions, and can come complete with ignition, coil, handlebar switch, batteries and charger if desired for a complete plug and play system.

Development has been stalled while we work on other projects - this will likely end up being developed over this winter...

 

Valve Spring Compressor


Valve spring compressor set - $45

I've found a really good deal on a nice valve spring compressor set for those of you who don't have one yet.   Not in stock - lead time about a week.

 

Feeler Gauges


Motion Pro Feeler Gauges = $5 each

Nice small feeler gauges that make it easy to set tappet clearances on 160/175's among many other bikes with limited access.   $5 each, available in .002/.003", .004/.005" and .006/.008" sizes.

 

Tappet Wrenches


Motion Pro Tappet Adjusting Wrenches - $40

 

I can also get a similar set by DS Tools - the DS set sells for $30.   No photo yet as I haven't gotten a set in yet.

 

Tee Handle Tools

I can get inexpensive T-handle tools by both Motion Pro and Tusk.

 

Self-powered timing light - $70

 

Race carburetors -

I am a Sudco dealer and can order brand new racing carburetors for your racer.   Common carbs for the 160 racer are Mikuni VM22's, 175 racers typically Keihin PE24's or Mikuni VM26's.

Suggested retail prices for the VM22 are $174/set, PE24 are $206/set, and VM26 are $210/set.   I can probably do a little better.


Keihin PE24 Race Carburetor

 


Mikuni VM26 Race Carburetor

 

Supplies

I can order most any supplies or tools you need for your shop.   For example:


ThreeBond 1194, aka "Hondabond," aka Yamabond," etc - in stock, $7.00

This is what I recommend for assembling cases.   One tube will last you a long time.   Also known as Hondabond and/or Yamabond - I recently saw where Yamaha has even superceded the Yamabond part number with ThreeBond 1194.

 

Spark Plugs


NGK D8HA spark plug - $3 each

I will soon be starting to stock spark plugs for our vintage bikes.   Let me know what plugs you use and I'll start stocking them.   I currently have NGK D8HA plugs in stock for 160/175 racers.

Spark Plug Caps


NGK 90 degree Spark Plug Caps - $5 each

I am carrying NGK 90 degree spark plug caps.   These are what I use and recommend on our racers.   For solid core wire.

 


 

Bateman Race Engineering Services

Clutch Basket lightening - was $100 - Sale continued through June for $80


Stock basket on left, BRE lightened basket on right

I am offering lightened clutch baskets built on your core basket.   Send me your clutch basket and I will lighten it by removing one of the drive gears from the back and shortening/modifying the cush drive to suit.   This takes a 3 pound 10 ounce basket down to 2 pounds 9 ounces.   Highly recommended - removes over a pound of rotating weight from your engine.   Development riders report noticable improvements in acceleration.   This product has been in the field for two years now and has been holding up just fine.   I also offer a gear spacer to replace the one unused gear on the crankshaft.   This spacer could I suppose be used to eliminate the friction of the extra gear without the expense of basket modification, but without the advantage of weight loss.   In combination with the lightened basket it is completely unneccessary but definitely cool looking.

The 160/175/200 family use two drive gears 1/2 tooth apart to drive the clutch basket as it is significantly quieter than a single straight cut gear drive, and more efficient than a helical drive gear.   We don't care about quiet, and we don't make much horsepower, so we can cut back to one gear.   Reduced rotating weight and reduced friction.

Tested in both 160s and 175s up to 18.5hp.   So far no reliability problems at all.

 

Undercut Transmissions - $65

I am offering hand undercut transmissions - a service done to your transmission.   Mail your transmission to me and i'll return it to you undercut.   These are done by hand, not in a machine and jig like a "Fast by Gast" or "APE" undercut job, but they are perfectly adequate for the hp that we put out and are significantly cheaper.   There are several out there right now, and my "development riders" reports much more positive shifts.   This is an expansion on the mild transmission work described on the Group W Racing website.   A great improvement for the 175 transmission, but a leap forward improvement for the 160 transmission.   Will greatly reduce shift fork wear, bent shift forks and missed shifts.   You'll be able to upshift without the clutch, which will save significant time on a lap if you are not able to consistantly upshift without the clutch now.

 

Rebuilt shift detent rollers

One of the problems 160s have is bad, sloppy, draggy detent rollers.   Sometimes all you really need to improve shifting a bunch is a rebuilt detent roller.   I can rebuild it with a ball bearing if desired for an "ultra-jiggy" detent roller, guaranteed to strike fear in the hearts of everyone who sees it (though it's hidden inside your motor, so not much fear is likely to be stricken really).   I can also work over your detent plate a little bit if desired to try and reduce the amount of "flat spot" between 3rd and 4th gears.

 

Rebuilt cam chain tensioners


Rebuilt cam chain tensioner

I am currently rebuilding cam chain tensioners, replacing the upper rubber roller with a sprocket from the starter.   This is a development part and is currently under testing.   Price TBD - contact me for details.   This will be a service to your tensioner - I won't have built tensioners for sale.

One of the problems that our racers have is chunking of the cam chain tensioner rollers - especially the upper roller and especially if it's not brand new.   The starter sprocket I'm using is metal which is an advantage, but is not quite as big around as the stock roller, so may or may not work for those of you who've decked your head more than about .020" due to the way the tensioner mechanism works.   Center rollers seem to hold up okay if they're in good shape.   I can sometimes get new racing center rollers made from a much more durable material with a ball bearing, but lead times on those rollers can sometimes be months.  

The ultimate solution I think is a slipper tensioner setup that will eliminate all the rollers and really improve cam chain control.   It is being worked on now, but development is slow.   I wouldn't expect them to be ready for testing before next season.

 

Camshaft Measurement - $40

I am offering a camshaft measuring service.   I will measure each lobe of your cam at 5 crank degree intervals, inputing it into a computer program which allows comparison of lobes to each other, determination of gross lift, valve acceleration, etc. It is most useful to ensure that the lobes are phased correctly, have similar lift and duration to each other, are at the lobe separation you expect, as well as determining wear on the cam. I will include a comparision to the best cam I have measured to date to see how your cam stacks up against the others.   It is also useful for identifying unknown camshafts.   This is a bit labor intensive right now as I have to measure the cam in an assembled engine, inputing the data by hand.   I will eventually be fully automating this process and making a jig to measure the cam out of the engine but it will be pretty expensive to step up to that level as the electronic sensors to do so are not cheap.

 

Cylinder head work

I have valve tools now so I am doing cylinder head work.   I am doing valve jobs, light porting work, head casting flash removal, head milling, etc. I can also replace valve guides if necessary, and I'm a Kibblewhite dealer so I can order valves/springs/etc for you as well.

 

Piston work

I've made myself a custom piston vise, so I can now offer piston flycutting services.   I can cut valve pockets to any radius and any depth you desire on pistons up to 56mm (or a bit larger if I modify my vise).

 

Brake Services

I am currently offering brake tuning for 160 and 350 brakes.   I can help you mount your brake properly, manufacture spacers, machine backplates for fork spacing, arc shoes, etc.   I am shopping for a used brake lathe in order to be able to turn drums, and I'm shopping about for alternate sources for brake relining.

I can also help you set up your brake - if I'm at the track I can probably help you adjust your brake for much better performance than you are getting now.

I am in the process of sending out brake shoes for relining with a special race compound.   This compound is highly recommended by Bateman Racing.   It is well proven, fade free, progressive and not nearly as temperature sensitive as some other full race compounds.   Shoes will go out in batches and there will be quite a long lead time for them to return, so if you're interested contact me right away.

I also have sources for 305/450 brakes that are the absolute bomb if you really want to have great brakes.   Contact me for details.

I expect to be expanding this portion of the business in the next few years.

 

Other Services

Other services like welding (steel, stainless and aluminum), minor fabrication, some machine work like case boring, etc may be available depending on workload - email me and ask.  

 

Future/Development Race Parts

Here at Bateman Racing I have lots of ideas and am always pursuing new products and services.   Here are some of the things I'm currently working on:

 

Replacement shift plates -

The shift detent plate on the end of the shift drum on the 160 is not particularly sophisticated or well designed.   I am considering having a short run of shift detent plates made to a better design.   This probably won't happen particularly quickly.

 

Cheap Clipons

I'm working on jigging up to make cheaper, one-piece clipons.   These will be welded steel clipons, very light weight.   Not replaceable bars, if you crash and bend them you'll need to replace the whole thing.   Will be available in your choice of droop and forward push.   They won't look as nice as Rick's clipons (see below), but will be flexible in design.

 

Close ratio transmissions -

At some point in your motor development you will find that your super hotrod motor that makes spanky peak power numbers does not make a wide enough spread of power for the streetbike transmission ratios in your stock transmission.   At that point you will need a close ration transmission.   I am currently working on developing a close ratio 4th and 5th gear set for the 175 transmission.   It may end up being too expensive to be practical.   We'll see though - I figure it's at least worth finding out.

 

160 to 175 conversions -

Like the look of the sloper?   Want to keep the sloper chassis but run with the big dogs at the front of the pack?   Your 160 can be converted to a 175, including the 5 speed transmission if desired.   You can even use a cylinder head from the much more plentiful vertical 175.   Contact me for details - I may be offering parts and services to assist with this conversion.  

Note especially to 160 racers: If you want to stick with a 160 I highly recommend holding tight to the Fowler Formula.   A true Fowler Formula spec racer is cheap and reliable, and a lot of fun where you've got other racers with similar steeds to battle valiantly with.   It takes a lot of skill and balls of steel to excel on a true Fowler Formula racer, and you know you've really accomplished something when you can beat other similarly skilled racers on a similar Fowler formula racer. They will be making 13-14 hp when carefully assembled and be a complete gas to race.  

I only advocate modification to 175 or more cc for the 160 if you want to run with what I'd call the F-175 racer or full 250 vintage bike - and that is a slippery and potentially expensive slope.   However - if you do want to go down that path I'd be happy to assist you - including case boring to accomodate the larger cylinder spigots of the 175 cylinder, conversion to 5 speed transmission, alternative ignitions, head development, special intake manifolds and exhausts to work with vert heads on sloper cases, etc.   But be warned - it is not a cheap way to go and is not a bolt-together affair - there is a lot of development and careful planning that needs to be done.   It is not too hard to build your way to a pretty slow expensive bike if you aren't careful.

 

 

Out of Stock Parts/Services

The following parts and services are either out of stock or in development - watch here for availability.   Email me and let me know if you're interested in one of these products.

 

Modified shift drums -

I have modified several shift drums to lighten them.   It is a labor intensive job that is hard on tools and destroys a carbide end mills.   It does however remove a couple of ounces from a critical part making for much more reliable shifting.   I may offer this service again in the future if there is enough call for it.

 


Other sources for race parts


 

Les Barker - The Vintage Advantage/Little Engine Service

Les Barker has been involved with vintage racing in the Northwest and serving the vintage racing community for a very long time.   He's a racer and enthusiast himself as well as a tuner and fabricator.   Les carries lots of parts for vintage racers including racing valves, racing valve spring sets, Titanium valve retainers, racing clutch spring sets, modified oil pumps, modified chain tensioners, etc.   In addition Les offers racing services such as cylinder boring, cylinder head services, custom fabrication, etc.   Les's cylinder boring is top notch, not an easy thing to find these days.

The Vintage Advantage
7100 NW Dale Rd
Vancouver, WA 98665
360-699-4964

Les also has an ebay store: Les's Vintage Advantage

Please let him know I sent you.

 


Brent Prindle's Motobits

Honda vertical chassis 175 rearsets

Honda sloper 160 and 175 chassis rearsets

MotoBits - Brent Prindle's company - Rearsets for 160, 175 and now 350 racers.   Fellow racer.   His rearsets are very nice and very adjustable, with individually replacable parts for crash damage.   If you're racing in the Northwest Brent is usually at the track to buy crash spares from.

www.motobits.com - you'll have to key it in by hand - somewhere there's a router that's been compromised or something and when I include the Motobits website as an HTML link it redirects to a security virus.

Email Brent at support@motobits.com

 


 

Vicious Cycle - Portland, OR m/c shop with lots of parts and services especially for the 160/175 racer - Everyone there is an enthusiast or racer.   Joe Pithoud (the owner) is a fellow 160 racer.

 


 

Rick Perreault - Perreault Performance Products - clip-ons

Rick Perreault is an all around nice guy and fellow racer who makes very nice clipons for vintage racers.   These are available to fit fork diameters from 30-34mm. For reference, here's a few examples of fork sizes and bikes that these clipons will work great on: stock 160s are 30mm, 175s are 31mm and 200s are 31mm.   CB350s are 33mm.   RD350s are 34mm. CB550s and 750s are 35mm.   Ceriani forks used by many of us on vintage racers were made in several different diameters - I have them here myself in 32mm and 35mm.   They use standard 7/8" diameter handlebar tubes so the bars are easily replaceable in the case of an "unfortunate incident" and crash spares are as close as the modern bike pits if you don't have any yourself.

The most recent pricing information I have from him (as of 2/26/2010) is that they're still $125/set, plus shipping, plus tax in Washington state.  

These are the same clipons that are on Tim O'Manony's championship winning green CB175 racer as seen in the picture on the top of this page, as well as the "Blue Rocket" CB175 racer that we built for Aaron Frank of Motorcyclist Magazine to race with us and he wrote about in the November issue and many other KFG's (Known Fast Guys) in the Northwest and elsewhere. &pbsp; These look and work great on not only racers but on Cafe Racer conversion street bikes as well.   They look especially bitchin' polished up like on TimO and Joel's bikes.

Rick also makes larger versions for bigger bikes on a case by case basis, and is working on some new designs.   I'll put up more pictures when I get them.   Email him for details and pricing.

Email Rick
Click here to see clipons on the Bonneville Raffle Bike

 


 

Fiberglass Bodywork

Glass From the Past - Brett Edwards sells very nice bodywork and such for vintage motorcycles - bellypans, fairings, fuel tanks, etc.

 


 

Aluminum Bodywork


Stephen Gillen Aluminum race tank for Honda 160


Stephen Gillen Aluminum race tank for Honda 160


Stephen Gillen Aluminum race tank and seat for Honda 160

Stephen Gillen in Arizona is hand fabricating aluminum fuel tanks and tail sections for Honda 160 racers.   He's doing a nice job and every one that builds is nicer than the last one.

Contact Stephen at: giltec at hotmail dot com

 


 

Copper Gaskets Unlimited - copper head and base gaskets

 

 

 

 


 

 

Copyright 2007, 2008 Michael Bateman

Email: michael at batemanracing.com